Shinjuku, Tokyo guide

Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden was once exclusive to royalty. Today, everyone can find refuge in its lush greenery (for a small entrance fee). The traditional Japanese, formal French and English gardens are connected by quiet walking trails. There’s also an art gallery, restaurant and greenhouse. The landscape puts on a stunning show in spring when the cherry blossom trees bloom.

The Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building offers some of the most incredible views in the city. The skyscraper’s two connected towers each have a free observation deck on the 45th floor. From here, you have panoramic views of Tokyo Skytree, Tokyo Tower and, on a clear day, Mount Fuji. Be prepared to wait in line for entry, especially if you arrive close to sunset.

Take the west exit at Shinjuku Station, and you’ll enter a cityscape that makes Times Square look quaint. Wander the avenues and side streets after dark to see the neighbourhood’s famous neon billboards. At the intersection at East Exit Plaza, watch a 3D display of a cat bouncing around. And don’t miss the Godzilla statue above the buildings in the Kabukichō area.

At the ancient Hanazono Shrine, join celebrations that have been taking place for centuries. November brings the Tori-no-Ichi festival of good luck, where vendors sell ‘kumade’ (ornamental rakes) thought to bring fortune. At the end of May, a multi-day festival dedicated to Hanazono includes a lively street food scene, traditional ceremonies and a procession through the neighbourhood.

Shopping is big in Shinjuku. It’s home to a huge number of department stores carrying everything from designer brands to affordable fashion. Two of Tokyo’s most famous department stores — Takashimaya and Isetan — are located here. So are multi-floor versions of beloved Japanese chains like Muji and Don Quijote. Electronics outlets dominate west Shinjuku, anchored by Yodobashi Camera’s flagship location.

Kabukichō is the entertainment capital of Shinjuku, a neon-soaked spectacle of bars and clubs in one of the city’s red-light districts. For an only-in-Tokyo drinking experience, head to Golden Gai, a series of alleys crammed with unique little bars serving locals and tourists. Nearby, the gay district of Shinjuku Ni-chōme comes alive after dark with nightclubs, cocktail bars and drag shows.

Whether you’re seeking Japanese wagyu or an ‘omakase’ experience (a personal chef-guided meal), this neighbourhood has it all. The best restaurants in Shinjuku for fine dining book out well in advance, so make reservations before your visit. For more casual fare, don’t miss the major department stores’ vast ‘depachika’ (basement food halls), where you’ll find everything from seafood bowls and salads to Japanese and Western sweets.

The Samurai Museum is one of the most entertaining museums in Shinjuku. Enjoy a window into Japan’s ancient warrior culture with sword-fighting demos and chances to try armour on yourself. While exploring the Nishi-Shinjuku area, keep an eye out for a few major public works of art. One of Robert Indiana’s ‘Love’ sculptures and Roy Lichtenstein’s ‘Tokyo Brushstroke 1 and 2’

On sunny days, take the kids to Shinjuku Central Park to climb over play structures or watch turtles in the pond. If you’re rained out, head to the Tokyo Toy Museum, where toys from all over the world are available to play with instead of hiding behind glass. Hit up one of the area’s arcades for ‘gashapon’ (toy-vending machines) and a round of Mario Kart.